Yeah, I know, sitting under stagnant and hazy or cloudy and
stormy skies as August comes in, it’s difficult to believe the fall star party
season will soon be here, but it will be. It actually gets under way for me in mid
August with the famous Almost Heaven Star Party
in West Virginia. From then on for me it’s one after another till November
begins to wane, often as a speaker, but sometimes just as an attendee seeking
relief from the months of deep sky deprivation we’ve typically been through thanks
to a stormy summer.
I won’t be taking a telescope to AHSP, but I will be hauling
a load of gear to the other ones I do this fall: the Deep South Regional Star Gaze, the Peach State Star Gaze, and the Chiefland Star
Party. Maybe even one or two more. I don’t just plan to do a bunch of star
parties this fall, either; I plan to do ‘em right after a near-all-summer
layoff. I’ll be packing Big Bertha, My C11, and her CGEM mount—or at least Mrs.
Emma Peel, the Edge 800, and her VX GEM. Mallincams. DSLRs. Computers. Monitors.
The whole nine yards.
Seeing as how we’re barely two months out from PSSG, I
thought I ought to slowly, ever so slowly, begin checking out the gear that has
sat unused for most of the last six months. So, on a particularly rainy
Wednesday afternoon last week I began the process of getting the star party
stuff sorted. Maybe you should do the same…
Telescopes
You might not have to do anything to the telescope. If you’ve got an SCT or a refractor or another semi-sealed tube scope that’s
done nothing but sit, you probably won’t have to do much more than give the
corrector or objective a quick eyeball to make sure it doesn’t need attention. Don't mess with it unless it needs it; as
you know I am very much against cleaning optics unless they are really dirty.
However, if yours is an open tube scope, a Newtonian for example, it might be time to clean. I don’t clean the mirrors of my Newts every year,
though; I don’t have to. “But Rod, but Rod, I shined a 10,000 candlepower
flashlight down the tube and saw some dust!” Leave that dust alone, Skeezix.
It’s not hurting you. Optics will almost always have a little dust on them, and
it will not affect images. Yes, modern mirrors are over-coated and their
surfaces are not as prone to damage as they used to be, but you still run the
risk of doing more harm than good by cleaning. Pollen, fingerprints, bird poop?
Yes, clean. A little dust? No.
If you simply must clean, go the traditional route. Rinse in the sink. Wash with tap water with a
few drops of Dawn dishwashing detergent added. Scrub problem areas with wetted
lens tissue or white Kleenex applying little or no pressure. Rinse with distilled water.
Correctors and objectives? I use a Lenspen for small areas. For larger areas I
employ the time tested combination of original blue Windex, original white (no
lotion of course) Kleenex, and canned air.
Otherwise? Check out your OTA (optical tube assembly)
fittings. I like to mix and match different finders with my scopes, so I always
triple check that the finder in the case with the scope is the correct one for
the finder mount shoe currently installed on the tube. If you have an
illuminated finder, now is the time to replace those cursed little button cell batteries.
Give the focuser a few twitches to make sure it’s in tune. Maybe polish up the
scope’s tube with a little Pledge if you want to impress your buddies, and you
are done.
Mounts
This used to be easy. “Does it still move when I undo the
locks?” “Does it track in R.A. when I plug the plug into a wall socket?” That
was it. Today, it is far more complicated since you are likely using a
computerized goto mount or at least digital setting circles. At the minimum,
I’d set the mount and scope up in the house and do a fake alignment and few
fake gotos to make sure the scope points in approximately the correct
directions given the time you entered in the hand control. Check all cables and
connections and clean with zero residue electronics cleaner as required.
Doing a fake goto alignment in the house or seeing if your
digital setting circles seem to “track” OK when you move the scope is a minimum. Personally, I would not think of taking an
electronically assisted telescope, especially one that hasn’t been used in a
while, to a star party without a complete check-out in the backyard.
If your mount, like most of Celestron’s newer ones, features
a real time (battery backed) clock, make sure it is still keeping time. If you
have not set the time in months, it will no doubt be a few minutes off, but
shouldn’t be more than that. If it is, replace the battery. Go ahead and change
the battery in your digital setting circles computer whether it still seems OK
or not. 9-volt batteries are cheap and it’s easier to replace one at home in
the daytime than in the middle of the night on a dark star party field.
Finally, get your power squared away. If you will be using
batteries, make sure they are in good shape. The best way to do that is by keeping them in good shape. Lead-acid
batteries (including jump start battery packs) should be charged for 12-hours
after each use. If they have not been used over the course of a month, charge
them for 12-hours anyway. If you are smart, you will test your batteries with
a battery tester before the event. Jump start packs have built in ones, but one
for your golf-cart or deep cycle battery is only a few dollars. Checking the
voltage of a battery not under load with a multi-meter will tell you little. A
battery tester is better and is convenient to use.
Eyepieces
Check ‘em out.
Make sure the ones you’ll want to use at the event are in your case. In the
course of observing from the backyard, my oculars tend to get distributed
around the house. Cleaning? Sure, if they’ve got gunk on ‘em, clean ‘em.
Eyepieces are like camera lenses; they are tough compared to first-surface
mirrors and will stand up well to repeated wrong-headed cleaning. I use nothing
but a Lenspen on eyepieces.
Might be a good time to fill in the gaps in your eyepiece
collection. If you, like me, are addicted to 100-degree apparent fields of
view, this is a particularly nice time. Several vendors—Explore Scientific,
SkyWatcher, Meade, Lunt, and William Optics—have introduced lines of ultra-wide
100s in the 200 dollar range. About what I paid for my Zhumell Happy Hand
Grenade 16mm 100-degree a few years ago. And guess what? All are very much
better in every way that the good, old HHG.
Computers
Do the usual things…make sure all the software you’ll want
to use is installed and operational. That’s particularly important right now,
since many of you will have just updated to Windows 10. Now, Win 10 is much
more like Win 8 and Win 7 that it is different, so theoretically there
shouldn’t be any compatibility problems. What ran on 7 or 8 should run on 10.
But, like I always say, “Trust but verify,” which is one of the few things Ronnie
R. ever said that I (sort of) agreed with. It might not be a bad idea to test
your really critical programs, like auto-guiding software, in the backyard or
at the club site.
Make sure you’ve got your computer power sussed, too. If you
are going to be at a site without AC, you’ll need batteries. Unless you are
running a little netbook, it is unlikely your laptop’s internal battery will
last more than a couple of hours. How much battery you need depends, of course,
on your computer’s power consumption.
Even if your site has AC power, you might consider taking
along a battery for the computer (and scope, too). I’ve been to more than one
event where every single power outlet on the field was taken up by the time I
arrived, and I had no choice but to run on batteries.
How do you actually run a laptop on a battery? There are DC
to DC solutions, but most convenient for me is a simple inverter. DC to AC
inverters put out power more than good enough to keep the laptop’s internal
battery charged. Choose one with enough current capability to suit your machine
(taking into account any devices like cameras that will be powered from the USB
port of the computer). Harbor freight is a good source of inverters. A 17ah
jump start battery will power my laptop for an entire run, and I found an
inverter at HF that plugs right into the jump starter’s cigarette lighter
socket.
Cameras
If you will be taking pictures, check the camera
thoroughly. Shoot some pictures if possible. Even just terrestrial ones with a DSLR or a quick grab of the Moon with a CCD. Ensure all the cables you need are present and in good shape—please
triple check this. Adapters to attach your camera to your telescope should be
in the camera case, not on a shelf somewheres. Other imaging items like guide
scopes or off axis guiders should be in the camera case or telescope case, too.
If you run a DSLR, make sure the camera battery is in good shape, that you have
an extra on hand and that all are charged. If you want to be extra safe, you’ll
invest in a 12volt or AC adapter for your DSLR.
If you use a cooled CCD camera and your camera features a desiccant
pack that keeps the interior of the camera dry and frost free, make sure the desiccant
is ready to go, that it is dried out. With most cameras that involves baking the
desiccant plug in an oven at low temperature for several hours. A few cameras
allow/require you to replace the desiccant. Do whatever you need to do; a
frosted-up chip makes a CCD camera utterly useless.
Camping gear
If you camp on the field like I occasionally do—when there
is no other alternative, usually—inventory your stuff: tents, sleeping bags,
cots, camp tables, and ancillary items like camp stoves, fans, and heaters
(ones that are safe for use in tents).
This is the time to replace or add to your camping stuff as
required, in late summer while the outdoor stores still have plenty of camp-out
stuff on the shelves. Is your tent in good shape? Large enough, and, most
importantly, tall enough, to make it bearable for a few days? A small tent you
cannot stand up in when you are changing clothes, is a recipe for, yes, an
unhappy camper.
Pay attention to your sleeping bag. Is the one you have
appropriate for the temperatures you’ll face? What will you put the bag on?
Some people can live with air mattresses or even foam pads. Not moi. I like to put my bag on a cot,
which is a much more comfortable arrangement for me. Not only is a cot more
comfortable, being off the cold, cold ground, even with a good bag, keep you
warmer.
Finally, if you are using a Coleman stove or a catalytic
heater, make sure these things are in good working order and that you have
enough gas bottles to last your entire stay (always buy at least several more
than you think you will need; propane is cheap). If you are planning on cooking
your meals onsite (not me), begin gathering up the pots and pans and implements
you use when doing camp food.
Assorted Stuff
You’ll likely need extension cords. Round up yours and make
sure they are longer than you think you will need. If you are in the least
doubtful, get to Wal-Mart and buy an inexpensive but reasonably heavy duty
outdoor cord. While there, pick up plenty of batteries in sizes appropriate for
everything you have that needs batteries.
One other thing you might as well take care of is warm
weather clothing. If you’ve been at amateur astronomy for a while, you know
that you will never be colder than you are when you are out under a clear sky
standing stock still or nearly so for hours looking through a telescope. If you
don’t have enough warm clothing (layer yourself), get to the store and get what
you need when they start putting out the winter things (won’t be long).
Along the same lines, visit an outdoor merchant—Academy,
Bass Pro, etc.—ASAP and get a season’s supply of those little chemical hand
warmer packs. They are useful to keep not just you warm, but also things like
telescope hand controls. Unfortunately, the stores, down here anyway, tend to
sell out quickly since hunters snap them up as hunting season nears. “Early
bird catches the worm” and all that rot.
And that does it for now. Squirrel your new purchases away
somewhere where you’ll be able to find everything easily in a month or two when
it is time to PARTY. When we get a little closer to that time, we will take up
the next step: getting all that stuff in your vehicle.
Rod - really appreciate the good gouge you put out on practical preparations! Going to the AHSP for the first time...looking forward to it!
ReplyDeleteJohn
Great advice, Rod! From years of experience forgetting thing, I use a detailed checklist of prep tasks and a list of all the gear I'm taking (or might take). I don't trust my memory. As final insurance, I check them off as I pack it into my vehicle, and this makes it less stressful.
ReplyDeleteRegarding CCD cameras (especially those for planetary imaging), I also inspect the chip with a lighted magnifier and clean them if needed. Tiny bits on the chip glass can mean big "boogers" that will ruin your images. Chips attract dust and it seems to always be right in the middle of the image, and they mysteriously show up even when it was fine the last time you used the camera. It is a pain to clean chips in the dark on the field.
Clear skies!
Alan C.
HI Alan:
ReplyDeleteYou can go wrong keeping your gear in top shape. However, I don't worry to much about dust on the chips anymore. The Canon DSLRs do a great job of keeping themselves clean with their cleaning mode. The CCDs? Unless it gets to egregious, I just do good flat...
One thing I would add is a good chair or two. One for general sitting about, preferably with an attached side table and a recliner like a zero gravity chair if you do anything with binos. I am preparing for a star party now and already have a mountain of gear in the garage ready to go. After years of star parties I have narrowed things down to take just one scope. I wholeheartedly endorse the cot vs air mattress as they are as comfortable as my own bed and much warmer off the ground. I also bring an easy up gazebo so I can have shade during the day and shelter at night. As I do astrovideo, it also acts as a light shield so I don't disturb others. I set up my scope on a ground sheet (tarp) to minimize dew and to capture dropped items. ......Dwight
ReplyDelete